Tag: europe

Day 12

Day 5/5 riding – Thursday, October 3 – Vila Vicosa, Portugal 

Today offers two choices – the main ride of 40k and 400’ climb or riding 62k. We start with a long downhill run. It was supposed to be cloudy however the sun is shining. It’s great to be in Portugal – with friends, old and new – riding a really fine bicycle. Life is good.

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Lots of photos were taken at today’s destination. We are at or near the end. A few, including yours truly, ride back in the van. I am hoping to get some of those photos I missed while riding however it is just too hard while the van is moving.

Only four out of our group of seven opt. for lunch and I stop at an ATM for cash. We decide to take the optional “Marble Tour” which was interesting but we would not recommend it in the future.

We begin our last evening in the hotel lobby with a video montage set to music of our five days together. We then bus to a nearby town for an evening extravaganza at an incredible residence/winery built in the mid 1700’s by the then King of Portugal for his 17 year old wife (there were previously many many mistresses). He died a few years later (maybe from exhaustion?) and the new King sold the property to the current family. The fate of the young bride is unknown.

We started in the chapel. It was small but exquisite. The hand painted tiles with intricate scenes form a tall wainscoting. The current Catholic family built the chapel. Next, in the old kitchen, was white wine with an appetizer spread while several in our group participated in cooking what will be this evening’s dessert. The guides ask for each of us to state our favorite memory of the trip. We remembered each other, the fabulous work that our three guides did throughout the week, the great bicycles, the hotel, the great food and wine and just the overall happiness of five days together in Portugal.

This was followed by a tour of the winery which Karen and I opted out of. I am sorry we didn’t go. Scott told us that they still crush all the grapes by feet – walking for up to two days on huge marble tanks filled with grapes. The harvest was late this year so they were still bring grapes in.

The dinner, in a large dining room was all by candlelight. The buffet style dinner, including salads, a delicious eggplant with a pomegranate dressing and duck in rice were all delicious. The desserts, including the one baked by our riding friends, topped off a wonderful evening. I stopped at one of two bathrooms that were as large as most bedrooms and again very beautiful.

It has been a long day. Karen and I have a car tomorrow at 7:00 AM to the Lisbon airport. We will fly on American to Philadelphia then on to Charleston to meet up with the LeBaron’s. We will arrive back in Lincoln on Monday. We love the travel but always look forward to getting home.

Thanks to all of you who have taken the time to read my blog. A special thanks to Tessa for matching the photos with the text. Together we are making memories.

Robert

Day 6

Porto – Friday September 27

Once again we slept in. I had told the Finnoff’s our transportation would be ready at 10:30 then I hurried Karen downstairs for a 10:00 departure. I guess it’s better to be early instead of late.

Again, we had a great driver – full of energy and information. Just like our Great Granddaughter, he talked all the time. He told us to get his job as a guide he had to take a test regarding the history of the city. Our first stop was an ancient monastery on top of a hill overlooking the river and the city. Most impressive – the river, its many beautiful bridges, and the colorful buildings of the city.

Off we went for a tour and tasting W. & J. Grahams. This was a classic and perhaps the World’s best Port Wine distillery. Everything was first class about this entire experience. Our guide spoke good English, the buildings and the wine celler were immaculate, and the story was rich in details. Port has two main names – Ruby (younger) and Tawney.  Under Tawney there are several different grades. The lighter it becomes the older and better it is. An exception is the white port which is very high in alcohol content and very easy to drink. I really enjoyed the tasting and finished both mine and Karen’s. Then on to the shop with a reminder they ship to the US – we purchased six bottles.

Off to lunch in another beautiful hotel. Dona Maria was a huge restaurant with only a few tables occupied. It was all delicious and the service was great. I enjoyed a special martini with a clever name that I cannot remember.

Next stop was a yacht cruise up the river to see the city and several beautiful bridges. And yes, the river flows into the ocean several miles north of Porto. The ramp down to the yachts was very steep because of low tide. We managed to get Karen in the wheelchair down only to discover there was no safe way to get her on the yacht. She decided to sit in the sunshine and read while the three of us took a cruise shortened from two hours to one.

Two young brothers, in their 20’s, were our hosts. Charters were the business of one of the brothers and the other was helping for the day. They could not have been nicer. We loved every minute and I took more pictures than I have any other time on this trip. The beautiful bridges, colorful buildings, buildings that were worn out, a class teaching young students to sail, and other yachts. It was great fun. Then they brought us food and wine that would have served a dozen – all delicious. My favorite was a soft cheese with pineapple and nuts. They found the wrapper for me so I can try to purchase more.

Back to the hotel for a DuncanTini then a short walk to a restaurant the hotel recommended – Tasco. Although they could not find our reservation they made it work. This place was the complete opposite of the previous night. From formal and very structured to very loose and very fun. We were right next to the bar. They were fascinated with my printed DuncanTini cards. We became fast friends with the entire staff. The food was great, the drinks were fun. Take a moment and read their menu. We gathered three of the staff to our table where Karen presented her first “Honey” ($100 bill) to the staff. We would certainly recommend Tasco to any and all!

Day 5

Sevilla to Porto – Thursday September 26

We were up and going this morning. A quick breakfast at perhaps the most elaborate buffet we have ever experienced. I haven’t talked about our fabulous Hotel Alfonso XIII. One has to experience an environment like this to both feel and see the grand luxury of a bygone era.

And just across the street, bringing me back to today, I filled my thermos at Starbucks. Our transportation today is a Mercedes Benz minivan with two bench seats facing one another – so sensible for conversation. Our mature driver was born and raised in the UK of Spanish parents before moving back to the Continent. We have a seven hour journey ahead – then he has to return – a fourteen hour day for him. 

Our first stop was by the side of the road because “he couldn’t wait any longer” to relieve himself. The Spanish countryside started with rolling hills of large, almost barren fields, punctuated with a few trees. Then came the groves of olive trees, followed by grape vines. The landscape began to green. The entrance into Portugal was just a sign along the road – much like we see at home when we pass from state to state – the European Common Market makes so much sense.

We picked a roadside restaurant because the lot was full of automobiles. The soup and a rice pudding washed down with a local wine hit the spot.

The hills turned into small mountains covered with green trees – quite beautiful. We had heard of a recent fire between Porto and Lisbon and sure enough we drove right through the path of the fires – burned trees on both sides of the highway. Terrible. The roads were excellent for the entire journey. Because our driver chose the shortest route we went from city streets to freeways to two lane highways to country roads then back to a beautiful toll road.

We all decided, despite enjoying each other and experiencing the changing landscape, a seven hour automobile ride was too much. In the future we will limit such rides to 3 or 4 hours, taking the airlines instead.

Although “Siri” says Porto is smaller than Lincoln the traffic says otherwise. We expect the “metropolitan area” is much larger. Follow-up – the population of the old city is less than 300,000 – the metro area is 1.9 million!

Our hotel Le Monument Palace is another “grand hotel”. In fact our room is the very best of the journey. And of course the staff is excellent. They made a fine DuncanTini at the American Bar followed by the most extraordinary dinner of this adventure.

We began our evening experience at the restaurant in the hotel my the same name with a “special” visit/ introduction to the chef in his kitchen. It was sparkling clean and obviously well organized. Our own appetizer- delicious. Into the sumptuous dining room we quickly discovered we were in for another pix fix dining extravaganza! Three of us took the “small” six course offering and Chris the ten course. Mostly seafood based everything was beautiful and mostly tasted great.  I was the only one who ate the uncooked pigeon. This was certainly the finest meal of the journey. We finally finished just before midnight. We were all exhausted. 

Prolog

Day 0

Lincoln to Barcelona – Friday/Saturday September 20-21

Karen has talked about coming to Spain for several years. Our first trip to Madrid was almost fifty years ago (we purchased our first piece of art by a Spanish impressionist at a gallery across from the Prada and I carried it home on the airlines). I had visited Barcelona without Karen. This was our opportunity to visit Spain together after all those years.

The impetus for this journey was a call from our dear friends Pat and Chris Finnoff from Boulder, CO. – “would we like to do a bike trip to Portugal”? I didn’t even ask Karen – YES – and we would take that opportunity to do Spain first.

Only two airline flights – Lincoln Chicago Barcelona – American Airlines. Both were on time and uneventful. If fact they were easy, comfortable, and very friendly. Unlike Karen I sleep like a baby (after two Vodka’s and two Tylenol PM’s). And those seats in business class that recline to flat are close to a real bed. The only trouble was an almost 30 minute taxi time arriving in Chicago and anhour and a half in Barcelona after we landed to reach our ride – hurry up and wait.

Immediately we notice the beautiful architecture of Barcelona – old and in vastly different styles with square blocks each with a squared off corner. The streets are brimming with tourists – people from different backgrounds dressed in different styles. It’s a happy place. It reminds me of NYC in that respect.

The Mandarin Oriental is centered on one of the very best shopping streets. Of course it is beautiful in every way. In fact it appears new – new construction and/or new decorating. I ventured out on the streets to explore and perhaps find an ATM. I was soon to learn that neither card worked – old PIN numbers.

On our last trip to PV we hooked up with our long time friends, the artists Maxi and Ivan (they originated in Argentina and now live in Mexico City and on the coast of Spain. We arranged to meet them in Barcelona this evening.

Dinner at our hotel with the four of us was quiet, relaxing and as always, great fun. By 9:00 jet lag had taken taking over. A great start for another special adventure.

Robert